WHAT GAUGE WIRE DO I NEED and HOW DO I TELL THE
SIZE???

An often asked question for new wire workers is, “What size
gauge wire do I need to use?” Wire is sized in gauges. Completely opposite of what you would think, the
smaller the gauge number the greater the diameter of the wire. Below,
I’ve listed some of the most commonly used gauges - in metric
and standard - and their uses. The lengths per ounce are for Sterling
silver.
Important Note: Most
tools have a limit to the wire size they can be used with. Some tools are very
expensive, so be sure to check the wire size limitations of your tools so that
you can eliminate damaging your tools and enjoy using them for many years.
In addition to saving your tools, you'll find that using the right tools
will make the job easier and more comfortable on your hands. I use pliers better
suited for fine wire when working with 26 and 30 gauge wires, and I have other
pliers and cutters for heavier work. Yup, the old adage is true....one can never
have too many tools!
12 gauge ~ approx. 0.081 inches (2.00mm) in diameter ~ 2' ll-2/3" per
ounce ~ For Sterling silver, this is a very heavy wire, great for using
as the core of a bangle bracelet. Special heavy wire tools are needed
to manipulate this wire.
14 gauge ~
approx. 0.064 inches (1.6mm) in diameter ~ 4' 9" per ounce ~ This wire
is commonly used for bangle bracelets, both with one core or
multi-sectioned. It makes great large, very strong jumprings. Perfect
gauge for clasps and chainmaille. Heavy wire working tools recommended.
16 gauge ~
approx 0.051 inches (1.30mm) in diameter ~ 7' 7" per ounce ~ Ideal
jumpring gauge, Great for necklace and bracelet links, center
wire for coil beads and wire wrapped larger beads. Too fine to be used
as a core wire for bangles. May use regular jewelry tools with this
wire.
18 gauge ~ approx. 0.040 inches (1.00mm) in diameter ~ 12' per ounce ~ Commonly used for ear wires, although some folks may not be able to
wear it. Smaller diameter jumprings or soldered jumprings, chainmaille,
wire-wrapping beads, rings. Too fine for clasps. May use regular
jewelry tools with this wire.
20 gauge ~ approx. 0.032 inches (0.81mm) in diameter ~ 19' per ounce ~ Medium lightweight wire, perfect for earwires, wire wrapping. Very
common headpin wire size.
22 gauge ~ approx. 0.025 inches (0.63mm) in diameter ~ 30' 5" per
ounce ~ Lightweight wire, good for earwires, wire wrapping beads and coiling.
24 gauge ~
approx. 0.020 inches (0.50mm) in diameter ~ 48' per ounce ~ Lightweight
wire primarily for wrapping and coiling. Great for linking
pearls, crystals and small delicate items. Regular to lightweight tools
are best for this wire.
26 gauge ~
approx 0.016 inches (0.40mm) in diameter ~ 76'4" per ounce ~ Very
lightweight wire. Tangles and kinks very easily. For fine wire
wrap projects. Very fine tipped tools must be used with this wire.
Great for wire stitching, knitting, embroidery and seed bead projects.
30 gauge ~
approx. 0.010 inches (0.25mm) in diameter ~ 192' per ounce ~ Hair thin,
ultra fine wire, great for sewing/stitching, crocheting,
seed beading. You must be very careful with this wire so that you
don’t damage it.